Saturday, October 16, 2010
Addendum to 10th October
Forgot to mention a particularly amusing incident. We were making our way along the train to the restaurant car when we came to one carriage that didn't have a handle on the door. The attendant for that car spoke no English so once again we played charades. Eventually she communicated with someone who came and opened the door for us. Problem -no handle on the other side either. Bizarre. We took the view that would be a worry for another time and carried on. I think Tom took his duties as a new husband a little more seriously. Anyway we had a good meal and not until the end did we speculate on whether the door would have a handle or not. By then we had loads of various scenarios worked out. This game was right up your street Gillie. In fact there have been several occasions when we have invented stories to fit circumstances and I have said "Gillie would be loving this." In the event there was a handle on the door when we returned. No dilemma.
Across the Gobi
Thursday 14th October 2010
Up at 05.45. Quick shower and taxi at 06.30. The station was actually within walking distance but we decided that, given the early hour and the steamer trunks, for the minimum cost we would book a taxi. At the station we were met by the usual scrummage of porters. This was the first time on this trip we were ripped off. The porter wanted the equivalent (remember the relative value} of £5 to lift 2 steamer trunks and one case on to a trolley and push it 200 metres to the platform. He left it there. We are always more than happy to tip very generously but considering the taxi only cost £3 he was excessive. He then asked a little friend to take the bags on to the train. He too expected a tip. Hmmm. He didn't get it so I wonder if they're still friends.
We had to laugh -something we of course never do. We have a compartment for 4. 2 steamer trunks. one largish suitcase, one medium holdall,3 rucksacks, and 1 tiny rucksack. Hilarious. Luggage, legs and bodies everywhere.
The storage compartments are only big enough for the holdall and rucksacks! Humour, more humour, a bit of a laugh and we're sorted. It's only for one night.
We feel really lucky to have this lovely old man in the next compartment. He is a Chinese monk in appropriate garb who started communicating with Donnie in the corridor. He came in and sat with us while we tried to communicate. He introduced himself as Lama Batula. Said "Good morning, good afternoon. good evening. goodnight and goodbye". Not quite like that of course. He then closed the compartment door and said a prayer for us. He is a lovely lovely man and we feel very priviledged. We're not sure how old he is but probably about 70 yet has fewer wrinkles than us. He is travelling with 2 women, one older and one much younger. The older woman took great delight in handling both Donnie and John's bottoms as she passed. Quite a contrast.
We had a really excellent lunch in the dining car. It's a Chinese train so a Chinese restaurant car. It was a set menu.We had a really scrummy salad, followed by a rich creamy soup, then perfectly cooked steak etc and tea/coffee with a chocolate biscuit for afters, all washed down with beer of course. I have never been a beer drinker and after this holiday I don't think I will have a beer for a long time.
The attendant has just been round to tell us the toilets will shortly be locked for an hour and a half. Mrs Grumpy on the Russian train took great delight in locking them early with no prior notice. I should have said that the toilets are locked 30 mins before a stop until 30 mins after. When we have the border crossing later tonight they will be closed for 4 hours. We have started planning already - all liquids strictly rationed!
All afternoon we have been crossing the Gobi desert. Miles and miles of nothing except an occasional small village or livestock with or without herdsmen.
It's now dark and it has been a beautiful sunset.
We have one stop for Mongolian exit procedures then one for Chinese immigration, then Chinese customs then a long stop for bogie change.
Sleeping will somehow take care of itself.
Up at 05.45. Quick shower and taxi at 06.30. The station was actually within walking distance but we decided that, given the early hour and the steamer trunks, for the minimum cost we would book a taxi. At the station we were met by the usual scrummage of porters. This was the first time on this trip we were ripped off. The porter wanted the equivalent (remember the relative value} of £5 to lift 2 steamer trunks and one case on to a trolley and push it 200 metres to the platform. He left it there. We are always more than happy to tip very generously but considering the taxi only cost £3 he was excessive. He then asked a little friend to take the bags on to the train. He too expected a tip. Hmmm. He didn't get it so I wonder if they're still friends.
We had to laugh -something we of course never do. We have a compartment for 4. 2 steamer trunks. one largish suitcase, one medium holdall,3 rucksacks, and 1 tiny rucksack. Hilarious. Luggage, legs and bodies everywhere.
We feel really lucky to have this lovely old man in the next compartment. He is a Chinese monk in appropriate garb who started communicating with Donnie in the corridor. He came in and sat with us while we tried to communicate. He introduced himself as Lama Batula. Said "Good morning, good afternoon. good evening. goodnight and goodbye". Not quite like that of course. He then closed the compartment door and said a prayer for us. He is a lovely lovely man and we feel very priviledged. We're not sure how old he is but probably about 70 yet has fewer wrinkles than us. He is travelling with 2 women, one older and one much younger. The older woman took great delight in handling both Donnie and John's bottoms as she passed. Quite a contrast.
We had a really excellent lunch in the dining car. It's a Chinese train so a Chinese restaurant car. It was a set menu.We had a really scrummy salad, followed by a rich creamy soup, then perfectly cooked steak etc and tea/coffee with a chocolate biscuit for afters, all washed down with beer of course. I have never been a beer drinker and after this holiday I don't think I will have a beer for a long time.
The attendant has just been round to tell us the toilets will shortly be locked for an hour and a half. Mrs Grumpy on the Russian train took great delight in locking them early with no prior notice. I should have said that the toilets are locked 30 mins before a stop until 30 mins after. When we have the border crossing later tonight they will be closed for 4 hours. We have started planning already - all liquids strictly rationed!
All afternoon we have been crossing the Gobi desert. Miles and miles of nothing except an occasional small village or livestock with or without herdsmen.
It's now dark and it has been a beautiful sunset.
Sleeping will somehow take care of itself.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Ulaambataar
Wednesday 13th October 2010
Sleep? I think not! I wish I could. Our Ger was really cosy but to make sure we didn't wake up freezing we had to keep the stove going all night. It was pitch black and we had hung the torch by the door in case anyone was desperate enough to brave minus 7 and go to the toilet. The stove was in the middle of the room and it would have been a trifle unfortunate to walk into it. As far as I was concerned it was a case of feeling my way round the sides until I came to the door then putting the torch on. On all 3 occasions I got up to tend to the stove Donnie woke and took over so I didn't have to braille it back to my bed. Suffice to say it was still cosy in the morning.
After breakfast Donnie and I decided to climb the hill behind the camp.
I couldn't understand why I was quite so breathless until John told me that we were at 5000ft altitude before climbing the hill. I was well impressed with myself - even if I won't be able to get out of bed in the morning!
We had arranged to be picked up for the airport at 11.00. That was another adventure. It was a tiny car with 2 steamer trunks and one large suitcase plus my small hodall in the boot. 3 of us in the back with rucksacks on our knees. John was in the front with the driver's 3 year old on his knee. Roads in Mongolia are not roads as we know them Jim. At one point there were roadworks and the guy in front of us just went off the road and drove along the rough bare earth. We did pass him leaning at a crazy angle in the roadside ditch whilst trying to get back on to the road.
At another point we passed a man with an eagle on his arm - obviously a tourist trap but as we are tourists.....We got lots of photos. Cath was brave and held it. I would rather climb a mountain!
After a hairy ride, not for the faint hearted we got to our hotel. It is typical of the old station hotels in the uk. Huge rooms and a bit old fashioned.
We dumped our gear and headed out. It was lunchtime so we stopped in a "restaurant". They had beer but all the food we ordered, or tried to order, was unavailable. We ended up with chips each.
Next was SHOPPING. Pleased with our buys we went back to the hotel to celebrate with a bottle of wine we happened to see while looking for snacks for the train.
Dinner at the Korean restaurant in the hotel. Early bed before a 5.30 wake up.
I tried to post some photes but obviously I was a poor student to Graham's tutoring. Will try to sort it out when I have more time.
Sleep? I think not! I wish I could. Our Ger was really cosy but to make sure we didn't wake up freezing we had to keep the stove going all night. It was pitch black and we had hung the torch by the door in case anyone was desperate enough to brave minus 7 and go to the toilet. The stove was in the middle of the room and it would have been a trifle unfortunate to walk into it. As far as I was concerned it was a case of feeling my way round the sides until I came to the door then putting the torch on. On all 3 occasions I got up to tend to the stove Donnie woke and took over so I didn't have to braille it back to my bed. Suffice to say it was still cosy in the morning.
After breakfast Donnie and I decided to climb the hill behind the camp.
We had arranged to be picked up for the airport at 11.00. That was another adventure. It was a tiny car with 2 steamer trunks and one large suitcase plus my small hodall in the boot. 3 of us in the back with rucksacks on our knees. John was in the front with the driver's 3 year old on his knee. Roads in Mongolia are not roads as we know them Jim. At one point there were roadworks and the guy in front of us just went off the road and drove along the rough bare earth. We did pass him leaning at a crazy angle in the roadside ditch whilst trying to get back on to the road.
At another point we passed a man with an eagle on his arm - obviously a tourist trap but as we are tourists.....We got lots of photos. Cath was brave and held it. I would rather climb a mountain!
After a hairy ride, not for the faint hearted we got to our hotel. It is typical of the old station hotels in the uk. Huge rooms and a bit old fashioned.
We dumped our gear and headed out. It was lunchtime so we stopped in a "restaurant". They had beer but all the food we ordered, or tried to order, was unavailable. We ended up with chips each.
Next was SHOPPING. Pleased with our buys we went back to the hotel to celebrate with a bottle of wine we happened to see while looking for snacks for the train.
Dinner at the Korean restaurant in the hotel. Early bed before a 5.30 wake up.
I tried to post some photes but obviously I was a poor student to Graham's tutoring. Will try to sort it out when I have more time.
Wow!
Tuesday 12th October 2010
So much for the early night we had planned.The Mongolian border guards did not board the train until late and we all had to stay up until they had cleared us through immigration. The result being that we did not get to bed until 12.30 and had planned to get up at 5am in time to get sorted for a 6.28 arrival. In the event we were all dressed up with nowhere to go. The train was an hour later than we had expected it to be..
We were met at the station by the driver from the ger camp. He obligingly took us to a bank that he knew was open - at that time in the morning! - so we were able to change our roubles into togrogs. It was then an hour in the "car" over very bumpy roads - move over Pentland Road! When we got to our ger we were gobsmacked. It is even nicer than in the pictures on the internet. It was roasty toasty with the stove burning in the middle.
Breakfast was at 9.00. It consisted rather strangely of a pot of tea with one tea bag, a mountain of bread which was toasted on one side, slices of spicy sausages and slices of processed cheese plus butter and jam.
John was feeling really grotty with his man cold so the 3 of us set off to climb a hill behind the camp. The scenery is just spectacular. Huge rocks that are worn smooth, jagged crags and wide vistas. The only trees grow on the tops. There is just so much space and so much sky it's hard to take it all in.
Although we didn't get very far we decided we deserved a beer as a reward.
I thought I'd be smart and have a shower before lunch so that I could see what I was doing in daylight.Interesting. Like the good girl I am I went to the Ladies. I sussed out how to turn the water on then took a huge deep breath and took my clothes off. I did have the sense to get the water to the right temperature before stepping in. I waited and shivered and waited and shivered and waited and cried and gave up. I dried my tears and the part of me that was wet with cold water and headed out. One of the staff came in so another opportunity for charades presented itself. I must be getting good at it 'cos she informed me that men were hot and indicated I shower there! OK I can do this so started the whole process again. Obviously hot men in Mongolia get hot water. Shower was great apart from the occasional drenching of icy cold when someone somewhere ran the hot tap. Clean me.
Lunch started with a beautiful thin vegetable soup followed by a salad course. The main course was very lean tough spiced meat in a sauce with homemade chips. Very tasty even if the meat was a bit of a challenge.
We had booked a car with tour guide for the afternoon and were a tad surprised when twenty million (Gross exaggeration, about 8 or 9) young Mongolian staff piled in. It turned out that this was the end of their contract and they were having a fun trip out together. We bumped over the open country to Turtle Rock. Guess why it's called that? It really did look like a turtle.
Next stop was a Buddhist monastery perched high up on a hill. Not bad that we oldies managed the climb including negotiating a rope bridge. Our ascent was somewhat slower than our Mongolian companions. The temple was well worth the effort and was a typical Buddhist temple emblazoned with red and gold. Three sides of the temple were lined with colourful prayer wheels which of course we all had to spin.
After that we were taken to a nomad's ger. It was the same size as ours and immaculately kept. The husband was out with the animals but the wife made us tea with goats milk. With my cold I didn't think it tasted of tea but was delicious. Through the interpreter she answered our many questions. We then bumped our way back.
Donnie and Cath had successful showers if you ignore the sudden deluge of cold water.
We've now had an excellent supper and staggered SOBER in the dark up the slope to our cosy ger. 8.25 and I've finished this blog. What now? Sleep.
So much for the early night we had planned.The Mongolian border guards did not board the train until late and we all had to stay up until they had cleared us through immigration. The result being that we did not get to bed until 12.30 and had planned to get up at 5am in time to get sorted for a 6.28 arrival. In the event we were all dressed up with nowhere to go. The train was an hour later than we had expected it to be..
We were met at the station by the driver from the ger camp. He obligingly took us to a bank that he knew was open - at that time in the morning! - so we were able to change our roubles into togrogs. It was then an hour in the "car" over very bumpy roads - move over Pentland Road! When we got to our ger we were gobsmacked. It is even nicer than in the pictures on the internet. It was roasty toasty with the stove burning in the middle.
John was feeling really grotty with his man cold so the 3 of us set off to climb a hill behind the camp. The scenery is just spectacular. Huge rocks that are worn smooth, jagged crags and wide vistas. The only trees grow on the tops. There is just so much space and so much sky it's hard to take it all in.
Although we didn't get very far we decided we deserved a beer as a reward.
I thought I'd be smart and have a shower before lunch so that I could see what I was doing in daylight.Interesting. Like the good girl I am I went to the Ladies. I sussed out how to turn the water on then took a huge deep breath and took my clothes off. I did have the sense to get the water to the right temperature before stepping in. I waited and shivered and waited and shivered and waited and cried and gave up. I dried my tears and the part of me that was wet with cold water and headed out. One of the staff came in so another opportunity for charades presented itself. I must be getting good at it 'cos she informed me that men were hot and indicated I shower there! OK I can do this so started the whole process again. Obviously hot men in Mongolia get hot water. Shower was great apart from the occasional drenching of icy cold when someone somewhere ran the hot tap. Clean me.
Lunch started with a beautiful thin vegetable soup followed by a salad course. The main course was very lean tough spiced meat in a sauce with homemade chips. Very tasty even if the meat was a bit of a challenge.
We had booked a car with tour guide for the afternoon and were a tad surprised when twenty million (Gross exaggeration, about 8 or 9) young Mongolian staff piled in. It turned out that this was the end of their contract and they were having a fun trip out together. We bumped over the open country to Turtle Rock. Guess why it's called that? It really did look like a turtle.
Donnie and Cath had successful showers if you ignore the sudden deluge of cold water.
We've now had an excellent supper and staggered SOBER in the dark up the slope to our cosy ger. 8.25 and I've finished this blog. What now? Sleep.
Monday 11 October 2010
To say I woke this morning would be a misnomer as I hardly slept so I'll just say when we got up early this morning it was picture postcard everywhere. We were skirting Lake Baikal (the world's largest freshwater lake) in the most beautiful sunrise. It was an incredible sight with the snow on the hills in the distance
The scenery as far as Ulan Ude which we reached in the early afternoon was wooded and quite spectacular. It then became quite treeless and very spectacular.
The restaurant car was being detached at the Russian border which we were due to reach about 6pm so we went for our main meal about 4pm. Our lovely waiter who has remained sober since that first night predicted our order of 4 beers and 4 borschts.
The second course tends to vary. At a stop earlier in the day we had bought provisions for a supper time snack.
We reached the border just after 6pm and eventually left at 9.43.
The Russian officials were, shall we say, business like and thorough. Our passports were taken away and we had been advised not to leave the train until they were returned so we took turns to get fresh air on the platform. After a couple of hours a sniffer dog was brought on and went through the carriage. It was followed by officials wanting to see in the lockers on the shelf above the door etc. Then just when we thought it was safe to behave normally two guards came along the carriage and unscrewed the few tip up seats in the corridor and shone a torch behind. What they thought they might find provided an entertaining guessing game. Tom, the young lad in the next compartment thought they were searching for their Quality Street. Tom and Evanna had brought chocolates as presents for the provodnitsa but because she was so grumpy they didn't give them to her. They shared them with us instead - definitely a much better idea!
When the guards had not found any illegal immigrants smuggled behind the tip up seats they then went up on the roof to see if that's where we had hidden them. Bizarre.
We're planning an early night as we have to be up about 5.30 in the morning. Tomorrow night will be another adventure - sleeping in a ger.
To say I woke this morning would be a misnomer as I hardly slept so I'll just say when we got up early this morning it was picture postcard everywhere. We were skirting Lake Baikal (the world's largest freshwater lake) in the most beautiful sunrise. It was an incredible sight with the snow on the hills in the distance
The restaurant car was being detached at the Russian border which we were due to reach about 6pm so we went for our main meal about 4pm. Our lovely waiter who has remained sober since that first night predicted our order of 4 beers and 4 borschts.
We reached the border just after 6pm and eventually left at 9.43.
The Russian officials were, shall we say, business like and thorough. Our passports were taken away and we had been advised not to leave the train until they were returned so we took turns to get fresh air on the platform. After a couple of hours a sniffer dog was brought on and went through the carriage. It was followed by officials wanting to see in the lockers on the shelf above the door etc. Then just when we thought it was safe to behave normally two guards came along the carriage and unscrewed the few tip up seats in the corridor and shone a torch behind. What they thought they might find provided an entertaining guessing game. Tom, the young lad in the next compartment thought they were searching for their Quality Street. Tom and Evanna had brought chocolates as presents for the provodnitsa but because she was so grumpy they didn't give them to her. They shared them with us instead - definitely a much better idea!
We're planning an early night as we have to be up about 5.30 in the morning. Tomorrow night will be another adventure - sleeping in a ger.
Sunday 10th October 2010
Woke up to a dreich morning having gone through another time change.Scenery was much the same as yesterday until late morning when it became far more varied with hills and valleys.
We spent a chunk of the day musing about our provodnitsa (female carriage attendant). Ours is really dour and we immediately christened her Mrs Grumpy. It's a real pity because she's actually quite bonny when she smiles.
Having said that she was the epitomy of joy compared to some we saw on an adjacent train. She spends little time attending to the physical state of our carriage and more time cavorting with the male attendant in the next carriage. She does however do a good line in cheap vodka!.
We had another time zone change at 5pm so are all feeling dazed and confused.com.
Woke up to a dreich morning having gone through another time change.Scenery was much the same as yesterday until late morning when it became far more varied with hills and valleys.
We spent a chunk of the day musing about our provodnitsa (female carriage attendant). Ours is really dour and we immediately christened her Mrs Grumpy. It's a real pity because she's actually quite bonny when she smiles.
We had another time zone change at 5pm so are all feeling dazed and confused.com.
Another day. Another time zone
Saturday 9th October 2010
Although this is dated Saturday you will probably have gathered from my strange use of tenses that I'm actually writing the blogs the following morning.
We woke to another beautiful day. We had crossed into Siberia some time during the night. The scenery is now more open and very flat but still with plenty of trees. The land is very boggy in places. All the settlements seem to be alongside the railway line. I would imagine that if you started to walk at right angles from the track you could go for hundreds of miles before you encountered any sign of habitation. As it is, the train goes for miles and miles of emptiness.
The vilages we pass look very poor and isolated although there are plenty of satellite dishes. Many of the houses are little more than the shacks we might see on the Barvas moor.They are constructed of wood with corrigated metal roofs. There are a few 2 storey ones of concrete block on the ground floor and timber on the first floor.
During the day we had 3 stops when we could get out and foray. It seems that the bigger stations have kiosks and the smaller ones have platform vendors.We assume that the selling of spirits on the platform is illegal. Donnie asked for vodka and she said "no" and looked around then produced a half litre bottle and immediately wrapped it in a bag to hide it! We investigated the other vendors then returned to ask for another one. She indicated for us to wait and she ducked under a train on the next track and disappeared. She returned with another bottle equally discreetly wrapped!
We had decided to have lunch and dinner in the restaurant car (despite our drunken waiter the previous night) so were not in the market for food.
Last night we had agreed to move to local time. Were we to stick on Moscow time which the train runs on it would mean that we arrived at Ulaanbataar at 1.30 in the morning and had a full day ahead of us with no sleep. It really is most confusing. John is wearing 2 watches - 1 on Moscow time and 1 on local time. Donnie is wearing 2 watches - 1 on Moscow time and 1 on U.K. time. Cath is wearing 1 watch on Moscow time and I am wearing 1 on local time. When anyone asks what time it is there is chaos! The only real question is "Is it either drinking time or eating time?"
We thought the time might go slowly and we might be bored. Not a bit of it, the day passed very quickly.
Lunch was another omellete and dinner was borscht followed by salad. We had all enjoyed the borscht so much last night but when it arrived it was watery and not nice so we sent it back. Our waiter (sober) was most apologetic and said it would be 15 mins. When it arrived it was every bit as delicious as the previous night. The salad was lovely too. The tiny kitchen and one cook can only prepare one thing at a time so, despite the poor patronage, mealtimes are lengthy. We wonder if people are keeping all different times so are not there when we go.
John's cold is still with him but I now have a sore throat which I think heralds the onset of a cold. I haven't had a cold for well over a year so....
It clouded over in the afternoon and started to rain in the early evening. How different the landscape looks in the dreich bleakness.
We knew we would pass through another time zone in the night. It is so lovely to go to bed and be warm and comfy, lulled by the rocking movement of the train and hearing the mournful sound of the engine's siren. Another day awaits.
Although this is dated Saturday you will probably have gathered from my strange use of tenses that I'm actually writing the blogs the following morning.
We woke to another beautiful day. We had crossed into Siberia some time during the night. The scenery is now more open and very flat but still with plenty of trees. The land is very boggy in places. All the settlements seem to be alongside the railway line. I would imagine that if you started to walk at right angles from the track you could go for hundreds of miles before you encountered any sign of habitation. As it is, the train goes for miles and miles of emptiness.
The vilages we pass look very poor and isolated although there are plenty of satellite dishes. Many of the houses are little more than the shacks we might see on the Barvas moor.They are constructed of wood with corrigated metal roofs. There are a few 2 storey ones of concrete block on the ground floor and timber on the first floor.
During the day we had 3 stops when we could get out and foray. It seems that the bigger stations have kiosks and the smaller ones have platform vendors.We assume that the selling of spirits on the platform is illegal. Donnie asked for vodka and she said "no" and looked around then produced a half litre bottle and immediately wrapped it in a bag to hide it! We investigated the other vendors then returned to ask for another one. She indicated for us to wait and she ducked under a train on the next track and disappeared. She returned with another bottle equally discreetly wrapped!
We had decided to have lunch and dinner in the restaurant car (despite our drunken waiter the previous night) so were not in the market for food.
Last night we had agreed to move to local time. Were we to stick on Moscow time which the train runs on it would mean that we arrived at Ulaanbataar at 1.30 in the morning and had a full day ahead of us with no sleep. It really is most confusing. John is wearing 2 watches - 1 on Moscow time and 1 on local time. Donnie is wearing 2 watches - 1 on Moscow time and 1 on U.K. time. Cath is wearing 1 watch on Moscow time and I am wearing 1 on local time. When anyone asks what time it is there is chaos! The only real question is "Is it either drinking time or eating time?"
Lunch was another omellete and dinner was borscht followed by salad. We had all enjoyed the borscht so much last night but when it arrived it was watery and not nice so we sent it back. Our waiter (sober) was most apologetic and said it would be 15 mins. When it arrived it was every bit as delicious as the previous night. The salad was lovely too. The tiny kitchen and one cook can only prepare one thing at a time so, despite the poor patronage, mealtimes are lengthy. We wonder if people are keeping all different times so are not there when we go.
John's cold is still with him but I now have a sore throat which I think heralds the onset of a cold. I haven't had a cold for well over a year so....
It clouded over in the afternoon and started to rain in the early evening. How different the landscape looks in the dreich bleakness.
We knew we would pass through another time zone in the night. It is so lovely to go to bed and be warm and comfy, lulled by the rocking movement of the train and hearing the mournful sound of the engine's siren. Another day awaits.
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